Date of publication 15/04/2018
They seem to have accepted it. Marrakchis, as the residents of this city are known, take for granted that almost everywhere they go, they will cross paths with visitors from around the world in search of the Red City’s Moorish allure. And last year, all records were broken: two and a half million tourists, more than double the local population, gave in to the great capital of southern Morocco, the most vibrant and Berber of its Imperial Cities. Also, the most irresistibly authentic.
That said, there is a more nuanced and different way to experience the city. It simply requires letting yourself be immersed in the local spirit, starting by balancing European-style comforts with native pleasures in places like Iberostar Waves Club Palmeraie Marrakech, a peaceful oasis set within the palm grove, where traditional Moroccan cuisine is served in its restaurants and relaxation is summed up in a single concept: Spa Sensations.
After indulging in these genuine pleasures, the city awaits with a fresh perspective and experiences that are meant to be savored.
THE CLASSICS, SEEN DIFFERENTLY
Her Majesty, the SQUARE
Simply “the square,” or la place in French, is how everyone refers to Jemaa el-Fna, the large open space at the entrance to the souks that pulses like a joyful heart. It’s true that if you’re trying to pass as a local, there’s hardly a worse place, but coming to Marrakech and not spending at least one afternoon here means you’ve missed the point entirely. Every night, it becomes the gathering place for locals.
In the morning, it’s less captivating, filled with stalls where you can sip freshly squeezed orange juice for just a few dirhams. Soon after, henna artists appear, ready to decorate your hand with intricate designs before you’ve even said yes, followed by snake charmers coaxing cobras to sway to the sound of their flutes. But it’s at sunset when this surreal stage truly comes to life, crowded, yes, with tourists, but even more so with Marrakchis who show up night after night to applaud the spectacle: grandparents with their grandchildren, couples walking arm in arm or, breaking clichés, sometimes hand in hand; groups of friends, some with headscarves, others in miniskirts and makeup.
Laughing out loud, mostly male crowds gather around storytellers who, like medieval jesters, recount hilarious tales. Nearby circles host boxers, acrobats, magicians, street vendors, sword swallowers, and even tooth pullers. And everywhere, the striking sounds of Gnawa musicians, who won’t let you take a photo without contributing a coin. Keep some change in your pocket and be ready to pay up, they’re working, after all.
On the other side of the square, smoke rises from the food stalls. As if they can read your mind, waiters will address you in your native language before you’ve even spoken and crack jokes about politics or soccer. If it all feels overwhelming, you can always head up to one of the terrace cafés overlooking Jemaa el-Fna. Classics like Argana, Glacier, or Café de France are perfect for watching the sunset. That said, if you want to see the square with hardly any tourists, you’ll need to stay late.
The Koutoubia, a guiding landmark
You’ll see it, but you won’t step inside. The slender minaret of this Almohad mosque, twin to Seville’s now-Christian Giralda, rises above this otherwise low-lying city. Entry is forbidden to non-Muslims, as in all Moroccan mosques except the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca. This has nothing to do with religious extremism. It was General Lyautey, head of the French Protectorate, who, embarrassed by how soldiers walked across prayer rugs with their boots, prohibited non-Muslims from entering places of worship.
Take note: if you’re invited into a home, make a gesture of removing your shoes when you enter. Out of politeness, they’ll likely say it’s not necessary, but it’s better to insist.
Learning to say “no” in the souks
Packed with small shops and shoppers, they can feel intimidating. You’ll almost certainly get lost as soon as you leave the main arteries, but only by doing so can you glimpse their true neighborhood life. The deeper you go, the better.
As you wander through narrow alleyways, you’ll come across workshops of potters and weavers, jewelers and perfumers; Rahba Kedima square, with Atlas kilims hanging from balconies and fortune tellers offering their services; herbal shops or Berber “pharmacies” with remedies for everything, spice vendors, and the rhythmic hammering of coppersmiths, carpenters, and blacksmiths, before reaching the vats where wool is dyed and leather is cured.
While you shouldn’t attempt to enter mosques, it’s worth seeking out the Ben Youssef Madrasa in the old city, a monumental former Quranic school that once housed nearly a thousand students, as well as the Bahia Palace and the ruins of El Badi, watched over by storks near the Saadian Tombs. It’s said this walled cemetery of sultans was discovered by the French while flying over the medina to map it. As if a labyrinth like this could ever truly be mapped.
What’s harder to escape, however, is the chatter of the vendors. A simple smile, a tentative bonjour, and you’ll already be trying on slippers you don’t even like, unless you’ve learned how to say no. Sharp as they come, they know it’s hard for outsiders, and they take advantage of it.
Rule number one before filling your suitcase with half the souk: get familiar with prices and avoid buying as soon as you arrive. They’ll notice, and you’ll pay for it, literally. Next question: Would I buy this at a market back home? If the answer is yes, decide how much you’d be willing to pay, but never name your price first, and let the bargaining begin. Be patient and, above all, keep a neutral expression. If they sense what you really want, it will suddenly become the most expensive item in the shop, so it’s best to ask casually about various things before getting to your target, without ever disparaging the merchandise or losing your sense of humor. The more relaxed and playful you are, the more enjoyable it becomes.
Ignore dramatic reactions. If they act offended by your final offer, remember that Marrakech is pure theater. If you don’t reach an agreement and walk away, they might send someone after you. If they don’t, you may have pushed too hard, and nothing here is given away for free.
AMONG THE TRENDSETTERS
Within the Medina
Even without the beards and lumberjack shirts, a certain hip, creative vibe has made its way into the maze. You’ll see plenty of travelers, of course, but also expats and stylish locals from Casablanca and Marrakech itself at places like Café Arabe, with its stunning rooftop sunsets, and the tea room of the unique boutique and art gallery Riad Yima, especially inviting when the fireplace is lit in winter. Or enjoying the fusion cuisine at NOMAD and, if budget allows, the refined gastronomy of Dar Moha, Marrakech’s most renowned chef.
At Kosybar, in the former Jewish quarter or mellah, it’s mostly foreigners who gather for afternoon drinks, though local young people also come by hoping to meet new people. More discreet are places like the beautiful black-and-white photography collection at Maison de la Photographie, or the literary cafés, concerts, and exhibitions at Dar Cherifa, a 16th-century riad where you can even enjoy brunch in a courtyard that feels like a modern take on One Thousand and One Nights.
Guéliz and Hivernage
In these neighborhoods built by the French, it’s easier to blend in with locals if you skip the floral shirt and selfie stick. Alongside international luxury brands, you’ll find designer caftans by Fadila El Gadi, original handbags by Lalla, home décor at Yayah, and, just steps from Yves Saint Laurent’s indigo retreat, collections by Moroccan designers at the concept store 33 Rue Majorelle.
There are also hidden spots like the pastry shop Le Petit Fours, behind the Carré Eden shopping center, where locals go for the best sweets, or a restaurant where you can even learn to make traditional Moroccan bread or a proper couscous with women trained at the Amal Women Training Centre.
Nightlife institutions like Le Comptoir and Theatro are also found here. Pacha, because no city seems complete without one, is located farther out, on the way to Bô Zin, where the local jet set gathers around DJs on a dance floor among palm trees, while others take a more relaxed approach over dim sum.
OFF THE BEATEN PATH
Picnicking with Marrakchis
Much like in Italy, Moroccans rarely skip their evening stroll. But when the heat sets in and staying indoors becomes unbearable, locals head straight to neighborhood parks, the green-lined edges of the city walls, or any tree-filled avenue. Lying out in the open air for dinner, they unpack salads, pastries, and fruit from their containers, and some even bring small burners to prepare mint tea or warm a tangia or tagine.
There’s no better way to see that Marrakchis, especially those not tied to tourism, are incredibly warm and sociable. With just a bit of French, you might find yourself clapping along with a family that, who knows, might even have a relative living abroad. With the snow-capped Atlas Mountains as a backdrop, the Menara gardens, once a retreat for sultans and their courts, are perfect for a picnic among locals, as are, along the way, the 320-acre olive groves of Ghabat Echabab near Bab Jdid.
Where they shop
The less traditional go just like anyone else, to supermarkets like Carrefour or Marjane, although it no longer sells alcohol, despite Morocco producing excellent wines, after reportedly being acquired by a Saudi group. For a more local feel, there are the stalls at Souk Azli. But if you want to shop without encountering tourists, head to the string of stores along Avenue Dakhla in the distant modern neighborhood of Ahbass Massira, where Marrakchis have been shopping since prices in the medina soared with the influx of visitors.
ELENA DEL AMO
Images: Cordon Press and D.R.
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