Date of publication 04/10/2017
Ecotourism The rural charms of Ibiza
Beyond the usual summer clichés, there is another side to the island, filled with irresistible natural, ecological, and rural appeal.
Beyond the usual summer clichés, there is another side to the island, filled with irresistible natural, ecological, and rural appeal.
There is an Ibiza that wakes early and drinks coffee beneath carob trees, an Ibiza of quiet villages where farmers shape vineyards and cornfields, and where in spring the scent of almond blossoms fills the air. This is the Ibiza of rustic calm, far from the beaches and the sea, where nightlife holds little sway.
It is true; to claim otherwise would be misleading. But step away from that sea, where posidonia lends the water its emerald tones, from coves tucked between rocky outcrops and pine trees, and another island emerges, entirely different. Inland, a rustic, peaceful, and serene Ibiza reveals itself, a perfect balance between a privileged natural setting and long-standing traditions that resist the showiness of the coast.
NATURE IN ABUNDANCE
Yes, the island’s interior forms a lush and fertile rural landscape, where the reddish soil still survives. In ancient times, when worship centered on the Carthaginian goddess Tanit, it was believed that this earth could repel vipers. Today, it has given rise to an expanse of Mediterranean forest that rises and falls across rolling terrain, reaching its peak at Sa Talaia, the island’s highest point at 1,558 feet.
Driving, hiking, or even cycling for the more adventurous up this mountain in the southwest, near the village of San Josep, rewards visitors with the best viewpoint in Ibiza. From here, the panoramic views stretch as far as Formentera and, on the clearest days, even to the Valencian coast. A tip: go early in the morning, not so much to avoid the heat, but to escape the haze that can blur the landscape.
While pines, junipers, wild olives, rockroses, mastic trees, and prickly pears grow naturally across the island’s heart, human hands have also shaped the land through traditional farming. In small, secluded valleys, patches of dry agriculture remain, with wheat fields, vineyards, carob trees, and fig trees that grow horizontally, their branches supported by wooden stakes, one of Ibiza’s most distinctive images.
Exploring this deep nature, whether wild or cultivated, means discovering places as unique as Es Broll de Buscastell, a spring that emerges among the hills in a remarkable setting. Since the Muslim period, it has supplied nearby villages through a system of terraces, irrigation channels, reservoirs, and canals. It also means visiting the island’s key wine region, Pla d’Aubarca, where local wines can be tasted at wineries such as Sa Cova and Can Maymó.
And then there is perhaps the island’s least-known scene: its many almond trees, scattered across the landscape, especially in the north, at the foot of Els Amunts and in the area known as Pla de Corona. Thousands of almond trees that, much like the famous Jerte Valley in mainland Spain, burst into bloom in early spring, covering the plains in soft shades ofwhite and pink, offering a striking spectacle and a delicate fragrance.
CHARMING VILLAGES
Far from the coastline and its somewhat excessive development, inland Ibiza remains wild and quiet, dotted with just a handful of modest hamlets, white as snowflakes against sun-scorched earth. These are tiny settlements where time seems suspended in the age-old customs of local farmers: working the land, tending livestock, and crafting artisanal products as they have for generations.
These villages, peaceful havens within the island known for its constant celebration, are also the best places to appreciate traditional architecture. Cubic volumes, simple lines, and whitewashed walls define a style that has fascinated designers around the world, famously admired by Le Corbusier for its harmony with nature. Unlike towns organized around a central square, rural Ibiza is made up of scattered homes across the countryside, with the parish church as the only focal point.
There is no set beginning or end, no single direction to follow. Any route through Ibiza’s rural villages should include Santa Agnès, in the far northwest. There are many reasons why: it is a delightfully small village, with little more than a shop, a bar, and its parish church; it has inspired poets, painters, and photographers; its surroundings, crossed by trails for hikers and cyclists, host the bloom of almond trees; and above all, it is home to the Museu Etnogràfic de Santa AgnèsEs Pujol, which captures the essence of this Ibiza striving to endure. Inside, everyday objects are displayed almost like prehistoric relics: farming tools, wine presses…
Only then can one truly understand the rural spirit of Sant Joan de Labritja, also in the north, once the island’s most remote area. Even today, tourism barely brushes against it, despite its ideal setting for hiking, with expansive forests and beautiful paths across forgotten plains.
Sant Rafel de Sa Creu, between the capital and Sant Antoni de Portmany, deserves special mention. This picturesque village is defined by its beautiful 18th-century white church, a postcard-perfect sight with fantastic views of the Mediterranean from its viewpoint, and by a handful of bars and restaurants where visitors can try flaó, a traditional cake made with eggs, fresh sheep or goat cheese, and mint. It is also the only village on the island designated as an “Area of Artisan Interest,” home to numerous workshops where the island’s finest ceramicists create distinctive pieces inspired by Punic traditions.