Date of publication 09/12/2022
El Capricho The world’s best meat is served in Mallorca
The Astir Restaurant serves El Capricho’s most delicious delicacies
It’s a fact that’s been confirmed by food critics, experts from media outlets like Time and The Guardian and the success of this charming locale in the town of Jiménez de Jamuz (León): the meat from Bodega El Capricho is the best in the world. Now its delicious products—and the secrets behind their aging—can be enjoyed in a unique setting: Restaurante Astir at the sophisticated Iberostar Grand Hotel Portals Nous, a space that pairs the Mediterranean with the exquisite indulgence of carne de buey, making it the best place to eat in Mallorca.
THE SECRETS OF SUCCESS
To understand the well-deserved prestige of these meats, you must meet the man responsible for them: José Gordón. This passionate carnivore has dedicated many hours, extensive effort and countless kilometers to his travels across Portugal and northern Spain to find the best oxen and cattle (over the age of six) that will yield the best cuts of meat. His keen eye is the result of his training as an agricultural engineer, as well as his experience as a livestock farmer and restaurateur.
This is how he’s been able to select the best beef from different breeds—which are always rustic—like Tudanca, León’s Parda de Montaña, Rubia Gallega and Oregon Washugyu: one of his most prized selections. Another key aspect of the process is having “the patience to wait until each animal reaches the right moment,” according to Gordón himself. His attention to detail has led him to set up a small farm in Castilla y León, where he carefully feeds and raises these exemplary breeds. This allows him to control the process and guarantee the best possible quality.
The other facet of his expertise is the 60- to 90-day aging process to which the meat is subjected, a step that lends a smooth and buttery texture to his famous steaks. It’s also essential to try the cecina, a smoked meat dish that’s given a gourmet twist through his exclusive selection process.
Ultimately, a combination of experience, careful selection, meticulousness and aging have allowed him to seduce even the world’s most demanding diners.
AN EXPERT TOUCH
The quality of El Capricho is absolutely unquestionable, after many years spent not only perfecting its products, but also innovating in order to bring out the best in each of them. Even so, the meat on its own isn’t enough. That’s why, under the elegant archways of Restaurante Astir, this top-quality product is served as part of recipes and preparations that enhance its flavor and honor each and every one of its nuances.
Just like at El Capricho, here the grill reigns supreme, and the different cuts of meat (beef sirloin, ox and beef T-bone steaks) are prepared over a wood fire, letting the flames work their magic without overpowering the taste or deceiving the palate. Thanks to this mastery of the product and the cooking process, the best meat in the world is free to unleash all of its flavor.
The greatest strength of Restaurante Astir, whose kitchen is run by Iván Crespo, is the plating and presentation of each dish. The sirloin steak, for example, is accompanied by a sauce of red fruits and celeriac purée, which is served without touching the meat, as an option for diners looking for an even tastier contrast. The garnishes that come with the T-bone, on the other hand, are more classic—but that doesn’t make them any less appealing. Diners can choose to accompany this delicacy with triple cooked potatoes, salad, celeriac or squash purée or roasted vegetables.
For those who want to try a 100% carnivorous menu, two of El Capricho’s uncooked specialties stand out among the starters: its sought-after cecina, selected from among the best cuts and delicately smoked, and a beef carpaccio garnished with Sal d’Es Trenc Mallorcan gourmet salt and oil from the island’s best olives.
MALLORCAN CUISINE
Beyond its meat dishes, Astir Restaurant exudes the essence of the Balearic Islands from every angle. Its design, the work of acclaimed interior designer Marcel Wanders, is inspired by Mallorca’s native spirit with Mediterranean touches, creating a distinguished yet playful ambience. The service and tableware reinforce this aspect, managing to satisfy demanding foodies as well as more easygoing travelers.
The rest of its menu is based on local ingredients and a desire to reclaim Mallorca’s exquisite cuisine. Among its starters and main courses are Soller prawns—the most delicious local shellfish—and the intriguing fonoll marí (sea fennel), which is featured in interesting salads and in the monkfish tacos.
Diners can also feel a connection to the island through the views from the restaurant’s terrace. Here the delicious dishes are paired with some of the Balearic Islands’ clearest waters: a landscape that couldn’t possibly be more Mallorcan. The combination of the beach, the Mediterranean, the pine trees and the breeze is yet another excuse to come to this superb spot and eat the best meat in the world.
JOAQUÍN ALCÁZAR I 28/05/2018
Photography D.R.
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